Vitamin C : The OG game-changer in skincare

If you are new to skincare, you have probably come across a few products that use Vitamin C as their main ingredient. 

Vitamin C was discovered in 1930 and since then became one of the most well-researched and loved skincare ingredients. It is a superstar component that works as an antioxidant, anti-aging, and brightening nutrient. 

Vitamin C is a water-soluble vitamin that if formulated properly will work as an excellent antioxidant as it protects the skin from free radicals that cause DNA damage to our skin layers. It works as a great protective factor into UV rays if used under a sunscreen since it is found that it boosts the UV protection. It also improves the production of collagen in the skin, speeds up the wound healing process, and helps fade pigmentation and dark spots.   

Normal skin contains a high concentration level of Vitamin C but it gets lower in aged or photodamaged skin. It has been reported that excessive exposure to oxidant stress via pollutants or UV rays is associated with depleted Vitamin C levels in the epidermal layer.

The main issue here is that our body doesn't produce Vitamin C naturally so we need to take it from fruits, vegetables or supplements but having enough Vitamin C in our bodies doesn't impact the Vitamin C level in our skin so we need to apply it topically to provide our skin with this all-rounder ingredient. 

 Vitamin C comes in a few different forms but the most known and well-researched one is Ascorbic Acid also known as L-ascorbic acid. It is the purest and the most potent form but it is also extremely unstable and tends to oxidize easily (the color change and became brownish)  while in contact with air or light that's why you will find most of Vitamin C serums packaged in opaque and air-restricting packages.
For example, The Ordinary Ascorbic Acid 8% + Alpha Arbutin 2% ( 12 USD), Vichy Liftactiv Vitamin C Freshshot (28.50 USD),La Roche Posay Redermic C10 (25 USD) and Bywishtrend Pure Vitamin C 21.5% Advanced Serum (30 USD).

Ascorbic Acid will only be stable if formulated at low pH (3.5) in water formulations or waterless formulations.

To help stabilize the Ascorbic Acid in liquid form, formulators from skincare and cosmetic companies tried to combine it with different other ingredients. For example, Ferulic Acid in Paula's Choice C15 Super Booster (49 USD) or Ferulic Acid and Vitamin E in Skinceuticals C E Ferulic (169 USD) and Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Day Serum (80 USD). 
Another example is the Dear Klairs Freshly juiced Vitamin C Serum (23 USD) that contains not only Ascorbic Acid but also other anti-oxidants to help stabilize it.

Another solution for the stability concern is to come up with a waterless form of Ascorbic Acid. For example, The Ordinary 100% L-Ascorbic Acid Powder (6.95 USD), Neogen Real Vita C Powder Lemon ($20), or The Ordinary Vitamin C Suspension 30% in Silicone (8 USD).  

I would like to mention some other promising forms of Vitamin C that have similar abilities as the Ascorbic Acid and are more stable in both water and waterless formulas : 

Ascorbyl Glucoside is a stable and easy to formulate form of Vitamin C. It is reported that it converts to Ascorbic Acid after penetrating the skin which means that it holds the same benefits as the Ascorbic Acid. You can find it in The Ordinary Ascorbyl Glucoside Solution 12% (11.95 USD), The Inkey List 15% Vitamin C And EGF Serum (14.99 USD) and May Island 7 Days Vita Plus 10 Serum (14.31 USD)

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is another stable form of Vitamin C but that is not proven as Vitamin C. It has been reported that it has better absorption in the skin then Ascorbyl Glucoside and it has great brightening effects. You can find it in SVR C Anti-Ox Bulb (39 USD you can get it for cheaper in Morocco) and The Ordinary Ethylated Ascorbic Acid 15% Solution (25 USD) 

In Conclusion...

Ascorbic Acid is the most effective form of Vitamin C that is more potent and effective when the concentration is ranged between 5% and 20%. 

For first time users, you will probably experience tingling and redness but that's normal as you will get used to it with time.I recommend that you start with a low concentration such as the Dear Klairs Freshly juiced Vitamin C Serum (23 USD) with a 5% concentration of Ascorbic Acid or The Ordinary Ascorbic Acid 8% + Alpha Arbutin 2% ( 12 USD). When your skin builds up resistance to Vitamin C then you can start using a higher concentration of it. 

The Ascorbic Acid and its derivatives can be used both in your night and morning routine. If used in the morning always apply sunscreen with at least SPF 30. 

Store your Ascorbic Acid away from sunlight and high temperature and make sure sure that it is tightly closed. If your product change becomes yellow or brown then it's time to buy a new one. 

That's all for today! Thank you for sticking until the end of this article. 

I know that it was a long ride xD 

Have a glowing skin day everyone! 

References : 

Juliet M. Pullar, Anitra C. Carr, and Margreet C. M. Vissers . " The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health". 
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5579659/

Kaiqin Wang,1,Hui Jiang,Wenshuang Li,Mingyue Qiang, Tianxiang Dong, and Hongbin Li. "Role of Vitamin C in Skin Diseases" 
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6040229/